Quilted Hearts and Twister

Quilted Hearts and Twister

I’ve been wanting to make something for Valentines Day, and when the theme of “Red, White, & Blue” for Project Quilting Challenge #2 (Season 10), I knew what I wanted to make.

The challenge states you can use reds, whites, and blues…any shades…no other colors, but you DON’T have to use all three colors.

  1. RULE#1…Your project should contain ONLY the colors RED, WHITE, and BLUE. It does not have to use all three, but it cannot include any additional colors.

So I decided, with Valentines Day coming up, I’d limit my colors to just the red and white. I went to work scrounging in my fabric stash for every shade of red and white (with no other colors in them) that I could find.

After going through my patterns, searching Pinterest, and having a desire to use my Lil’ Twister tool again, I found a tutorial by Connie Kresin on the cutest little Twister heart pattern and decided that was the one!

I made a quick sketch of the layout of the square colors on paper, and then cut the fabric stash into 5 inch squares. Here they are (below) pinned on my design wall. I realized quickly that it’s best to have contrast between each square (except for the background that’s all the same white with red print).

I sewed the squares together.

Question: do you press the seams to one side (each row in opposite directions) so the seams nest together making the columns easier to sew together? Or do you press the seams open so there’s less bulk at the intersections, making it easier to cut and piece the pinwheels later?

I decided to press the seams open. It takes longer, but it sure makes cutting & sewing the pinwheels easier later.

The next step involves the Lil’ Twister square template. Just line the black lines on the template with where the seams intersect and cut. I twisted them slightly and carefully placed them side by side in a row as I cut them.

Before going on to cut the next row, I like to sew the row together, and even sew the rows together too…less chance of getting them mixed up.

after cutting everything out, you’ll end up with lots of tiny pieces of leftover fabric… I like to trim them to 2-1/2 inch squares to use in another project. I ran out of the background fabric, but if I had more of it I might have used these squares in one of the borders.

This is the fun part! I love ❤️ seeing the pattern–in this case the heart–emerge as I piece it together. Magical!

To keep everything nice and flat, I used Best Press on each row.

All that was left was to add a couple borders, add the batting and backing, and quilt it on my domestic machine (my sweet Bernina 570QE).

Using various reds (Aurifil and Sulky threads), I free motion quilted petals in each pinwheel. And with a walking foot and white thread, did a straight stitch around the heart shape and around the border.

and here it is!

I’m entering this Twisted Heart wall hanging in this week’s Project Quilting.

UPDATE: The voting is now closed. No prizes this time, but it did rank #11 out if 118 entries. Thanks so much for your vote!

Until next time, HAPPY QUILTING!


Mulberry Patch Quilts

DIY Four Circle Table Topper with Bernina Circular Embroidery Attachment

DIY Four Circle Table Topper with Bernina Circular Embroidery Attachment

I’ve been eyeing a special attachment for my Bernina sewing machine for quite some time.  I was at Mill House Quilts in Waunakee this past week, where they have all the newest Bernina sewing machines along with a great assortment of attachments and feet.  Then I saw it, they had it in stock!, so I finally decided to buy it — the Circular Embroidery Attachment.  (cue the trumpets) Ta da!


I have lots of ideas of how I  want to use the attachment (none of which included embroidery–hehe), so I got online to find a few YouTube videos to visually see how to attach it to my machine and how they used it.  Here are some great links if you’re interested:

The attachment comes with 2 screws and a nifty small screwdriver, and attaches to the bed of my machine with one screw in the hole on the right of my pressure foot.  One video suggested taping the other end near the pin to be sure it doesn’t wiggle (which I did—see blue painter’s tape in the second photo below).



There’s a sharp pin under that plastic nob on the left of the tape (see above).  You carefully take off that plastic bit and poke the center of your fabric through the sharp pin and replace the plastic bit, and that’s all there is to it.  You place the fabric under the pressure foot and “step on the gas” and it glides around in a circular pattern all on its own with little help from you.  You do need to stabilize the fabric so it doesn’t wrinkle and bunch up, but if you’re doing the project I’m doing, it’s not necessary.  The directions recommend using a open embroidery type foot, but since I’ll be sewing through a few layers with batting I’m using my walking foot.

The pin is on a sliding mechanism so that you can adjust the size of the circle you want to sew.  The distance between the pin and your needle x 2 = the size of the diameter of the circle.  So for this particular project, I measured and slid the pin at a distance from the needle so the circles would measure around 8-1/2 to 9 inches.

So here’s my first project using the Circular Embroidery Attachment – A Four Circle Table Topper.

I went through my stash of unused layer cake squares and chose 8 coordinating fabrics (4 peach/pink and 4 mint green), and cut 4 squares of batting to match.

Then I layered them starting with the batting on the bottom, mint fabric face up, then peach/pink fabric face down (so the 2 fabrics are right sides together).


Line them all up and use your ruler to find the center and mark a dot lightly with a water soluble marker (or other washable mark).  Then take it all over to your sewing machine and put the pin of the circular embroidery attachment through all the layers at that center mark and feed the right end (edge) of the fabric under the pressure foot.


It’s so easy!  It walks (sews) itself around in a perfect circle and comes back to exactly where it was started.  LOVE IT!

Here’s my short (very short) YouTube video showing how it works on my machine…(my very first one)…

After trimming around the edges with a pinking shears (or pinking rotary cutter if you have one), you cut a small slit along an edge being sure to only cut the top fabric.  Be sure the cut slit is in a spot where the fabric will eventually be folded over (so the it will be hidden).  Then turn the circle inside-out, using a blunt ended tool (like a bamboo paper folder, purple-thang, or bamboo skewer) to be sure all the edges are nice and crisp, and press.  OH, you might want to use a tiny bit of water to get rid of the water soluble mark you made in the center…you don’t want to permanently heat set it into the fabric with your iron.


Use a ruler and a water soluble marker or chalk, draw a square box within the finished circle (being sure that the cut slit falls beyond the square in the outer edge (see top of the photo below).  Each of the corners of the square should just touch the edge of the circle.  I was lucky enough that my square ruler was a perfect fit.


After making four of these, place them on a flat surface and see what arrangement you like best, turning up two edges on each one to expose the fabric underneath… it’s important that the “flap” that has the cut (used to turn them right side out) is in one of the seams so it’s covered.  Then it’s similar to sewing a 4 patch together—Take the 2 upper circles and match them BACK to BACK using the drawn lines as a sewing guide, pin,  and sew them together edge to edge, do the same with the lower 2.  Then sew the top 2 with the bottom 2 and it will look something like this..


Iron the flaps down and use your favorite decorative stitch around each edge of the flaps (petals) to finish.


I chose a blanket stitch in green variegated thread, but you could opt to use a straight stitch, any decorative stitch, or just tack the flaps at each center point.  You could even hand sew them down if you wanted to.  You need to at least tack them down (or sew them) to be sure that the cut you made to turn the circles inside out is completely covered.

And here it is, all finished


What’s nice about this pattern is the quilting is done as you go, and the back is as interesting as the front…


So it’s completely reversible.

And no worries if you don’t have the attachment…you can create these table toppers by tracing a circle (using a platter or template) onto the fabric and carefully sewing on the line.  That will work, but I’ve found this is a time saver, I can make any size circle,  and just looks a bit better too.


I think they make a wonderful gift—Mother’s Day is coming up.

So I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and that you’ll try making a reversible 4-circle table topper.  I have them for sale in my Mulberry Patch Quilts Etsy Shop if you’d like to purchase one instead, along with lots of other ideas for Mother’s Day.

I’ll be posting other ideas for using my Bernina Circular Embroidery Attachment in the future…hope you’ll come back again! And be sure to post a comment below on how you use your circular attachment—any tips or ideas?

Until next time,



Mulberry Patch Quilts

Wine Coaster DIY


I wanted a little gift to send to a friend for her birthday—

I came across several tutorials on the internet and TV for making wine coasters, all with similar ideas—a little folding magic and voilà!  Easy-to-make and fun-to-enjoy coasters!


Ah hah!  The perfect gift…  easy to send with the card, and I can make it from my stash.


These coasters will fit perfectly over the bottom stems of the average size wine glass, but you can also use them as regular coasters…for any beverage.


Wanna make some?

Here’s how I did it…

First, grab 5 fabrics and cut a 4-1/2” circle out of each one.  I found that a nested set of circles I have for machine quilting worked perfectly as a rotary cutting guide for my circles…

Next, leave one circle alone (base circle) and press each of the other 4 circles in half.  I cut enough to make two…

Now the layering part.  Put your base circle right side up…then place each folded circle (with the folds toward the inside and the raw edges in line with the base circle) like this:

Be sure to tuck the last one under the first…it’ll make sense when you do it.

Now the sewing part:  sew a 1/4” seam around the entire perimeter through all layers…you might want to trim with a pinking shears (but you don’t’ have to)

Just turn it right side out through the center of the folded circles…give it a good pressing…and like magic…voilà…a lovely wine coaster…and my favorite wine from our local winery–Wollersheim Winery 🙂 A great place to visit BTY, if you’re coming to the Prairie du Sac area of Wisconsin!

Or a lovely coaster for any beverage!

Wish my coffee looked like this

hmmmm…Time for a coffee break!

Until next time, HAPPY QUILTING!!


Mulberry Patch Quilts


Art Quilt Backing Technique for Hanging on Wall

I’ve been working furiously this week-end on creating a new autumn leaves art quilt using the “confetti” technique to add to my collection for the McGregor Marquette Center for the Arts display (opening May 16th).

Starting with a piece of my hand-dyed aqua fabric as a background, and shredding up several different hand-dyed shades of red, green, brown, black and yellows, I started “painting” by sprinkling the “confetti” onto the background.


then adding tulle netting and heavily free-hand quilting it with variegated cotton thread in shades of green, gold, red.  Finally adding the tree trunk and limbs in black fabric, quilted in black cotton thread…


I decided to try a new technique for backing the art quilt.  I first stiffened it by adding Pellon craft fuse-on interfacing to the back lining, and then cut four squares (5″ each) and pressed them in half–adding them to each corner of the back of the quilt.  The raw edges are sewn into the binding and the raw edges will be encased when I fold the binding to the back and hand stitch it closed.


Then I can simply add a thin wooden dowel to both the top two triangles to hang it on the wall, and I can add another dowel across the bottom (tucked into the bottom two triangles) to keep it from “curling” over time.


I’ve seen this technique before on some “Pinterest” sites, and I think it might be the best way to hang smaller art quilts.  So for the smaller ones (those under 24″), I adopting this technique from now on.  There are a lot of great tutorials out there…here’s a great 2 minute tutorial via Craftsy by Beth Ferrier:


For my larger art quilts, or for those going to shows, I’ll add the usual hanging sleeve in the traditional way.  Here’s a tutorial for how to do that:


All that’s left to do is to add my label to the back, and my art quilt is finished!

On to the next…

Happy Quilting!


Mulberry Patch Quilts

Fun Way to Fold a Fat Quarter of Fabric


Here’s a fun way to fold at “fat quarter” fabric to give as gifts, or just for fun…

1. Lay your fat quarter out flat (this is some hand dyed fabric I’ve just finished and am giving as a gift)…


2. Fold one long raw edge to the center…


3. Fold the other raw edge to the center…


4. Next fold in half along the same long edge, encasing the raw edges inside the fold…


5. Fold one short raw edge to the center…


6. then the other short raw edge, so they meet in the center…


7. Fold one corner to the bottom edge


8. Then the other corner to the bottom edge (they’ll meet in the center)


9. Tuck one corner into the other corner and there you have it!


10.  All the raw edges are encased within the folds, and it’s cute as can be! 🙂




So, what do you think?    Do you have a fun way to fold your “fat quarters”?




The “Go Pack” Baby Quilt


During the Wisconsin Shop Hop, I found these great Wisconsin fabrics at my favorite quilt stores.  The green and yellow just screamed Green Bay Packers–so I had to find a few other fabrics to go with them into a “Go Pack” Baby Quilt.

Have you discovered the spectacular YouTube Tutorials from the Missouri Star Quilt Company?  (If not, be sure to click the link on their name to view them).  I just love Jenny–she’s inspiring and fun.  Anyway–Even though I used her YouTube Tutorial on the Disappearing Nine Patch I had to “sketch” it out myself on the computer using EQ7 (Electronic Quilt 7 software) first to be sure of the size and amount of material:

EQ7 Go Pack Quilt

Then I cut out the squares…


…sewed them into 9-patches (first rows, and then sewing those rows together).


Don’t you just love the football-theme fabrics?  As I mentioned, several of them are from the Wisconsin Shop Hop (designed by Kim Schaefer for Andover Fabrics).  One has the names of Wisconsin cities printed on it).  There’s also a referee-type stripe, some random green & yellow circles/stripes, and even green turf with yard lines.  I added some fabrics with footballs and helmets (Robert Hoffman).  Fun.

The next step was to cut each of the 9-patch blocks right down the center–both ways…


And then put them up on my design wall and scramble them–making sure no two seams matched…


My backing wasn’t wide enough–so I had to add a few strips of fabric, which just screamed–add the words “Go Pack” in green on the yellow strip!  So I fired up my Cricuit to cut out some paper templates, traced and cut them out of green fabric, and added them to the backing with a zig zag stitch.  Now the back is big enough…


I think deciding what design to quilt is the hardest part.  Do you agree?  I always get stuck.

I decided to follow the fabric designs–going around the little helmets, footballs, and do an overall loop-DE-loop in-between.


It was fun to make, and is now for sale in my Etsy Shop.


Next time I give this a try, I might do it in pastels — I loved the scalloped border that Jenny used in her tutorial, so sweet.  (hmm…I might need to get that special scallop ruler… Can we ever have enough plastic rulers?)

Thanks for stopping by!

DIY Ironing Board Topper

So, I’ve seen the large extension boards at the quilt show vendors that go over your existing ironing board to make the ironing surface larger.  They make the surface ideal for ironing your larger quilt projects.  But the cost (around $130+) a bit prohibitive.  (Because I’d rather spend that money on more fabric!!!)  🙂

I found a few websites via Pinterest that showed how to make your own.  This is how I made mine…


  • 1/2-inch thick plywood cut to size
  • wood planks (1-1/2 x 1/2 inch) cut into six 12-14″ pieces
  • Nails or wood screws
  • Low-loft cotton batting (use 2 layers)
  • Muslin or other cotton fabric to cover the top (I used 1-3/4 yd muslin)
  • Staple gun & staples (I used 1/4″)

I went to two home improvement stores before I found out that only Home Depot (in my area) will cut plywood to your specifications!  🙂  (Going to the store was the hardest part for me, because I’m terribly intimidated by lumber yards–I feel like a fish out of water…maybe like most men might feel in a fabric store?)  Because of my small sewing studio space, I had my board cut to 22″ x 54″ so it would fit nicely into the space I have (the real “Big Boards” are larger, about 60″ x 22″).  So measure to see what your needs are.  I found out that you have to pay for the entire plywood sheet (mine was sanded on one side and cost $20)–so I asked him to make a few extra cuts & I’ll use the remainder for shelving or some other project–and it will fit in the car!!  He was so patient.

You’ll also need some type of sturdy, inexpensive planks that will be screwed into the plywood board to nest (snugly fit) over your existing ironing board.  The directions I found on Pinterest called for 1-1/2 x 1/2″ wood planks, but Home Depot didn’t have any–so I used 1×2″ pine instead (6 foot section cost me $2.75).

STEP 1:  Lay your bare existing ironing board on top of the unsanded side (least pretty side) of your plywood.


STEP 2:  Using a magic marker–mark the outline of the ironing board on the plywood to use as your guide.


STEP 3:  Position the 1×2’s (or whatever size planks you find) on the OUTSIDE of the drawn line, because your ironing board will snug right into the inside.  You’ll see what I mean in a moment.


Pre-drill holes in the planking & board (don’t go all the way through to the top of the board!), positioning the wood planks on either side, top and bottom where the ironing board will sit.  Screw together (make sure screws are short enough that they don’t poke through the top).


Now’s the time to double check and be sure it fits over the top of your ironing board so you can re-position if needed.


STEP 4:  Cut a length of fabric a few inches longer and wider than the board and lay right-side down on the floor.  I used some cotton muslin I had on hand—but wouldn’t a fun print look nice?  Just be sure the fabric is cotton (so it won’t melt under the heat of the iron).  Then put 2 layers of a cotton batting (low-loft) on top of the fabric.  Then lay your plywood on top of that.


STEP 5:  Using your staple gun, pull slightly on the fabric & batting to make it snug around the plywood (but don’t stretch the fabric too much) and staple it down.  Start at the corners , then staple each of the ends opposite each other (top and bottom, side and side).  Check the bottom (which will be the top) to be sure the fabric is nice and smooth with no wrinkles and continue stapling to secure nicely.  You can trim any excess fabric & cover with duct tape if you like.


THAT’S IT!  You’re done!

Just lift the plywood up and over and position it on top of your existing ironing board.  It should fit perfectly!  Made to order!


Now I can iron an entire length (42″) of fabric off the bolt, or long strips or borders on my quilts!  It will be wonderful for ironing binding…  YEAH!!!


And when the muslin top gets dirty or messy, all I have to do is take it off and staple on a new one.  All for less than $25 (I didn’t count the fabric & batting, which I had on hand).


Here’s one of the many sites where I got the idea: